A brief introduction
The Galapagos Islands have long been a destination for intrepid travellers seeking a glimpse into the natural wonders of the world. From the diverse wildlife to the stunning landscapes, there’s something truly special about this remote archipelago off the coast of Ecuador.
One of the must-see spots in the Galapagos is Tortuga Bay, a pristine white sand beach located on the island of Santa Cruz. Getting there is no small feat for an unassuming traveller – a 5.something km walk down the lively streets of Puerto Ayora, followed by a trek down a winding path we dubbed the “miniature great wall of china.” But trust us, the journey is worth it.
Kayaking in Tortuga Bay is like a dream come true, especially for beginners. The calm, clear waters make it ideal for underwater sightseeing (bring that GoPro!). Plus, with its protected location, there’s no need to worry about rough currents or overly choppy waves. It’s the perfect place to dip your paddle for the first time and pretend you’re a seasoned pro. Plus, with the stunning views of the bay and surrounding mangroves, you’ll feel like you’re on a luxury vacation, even with your feet wet!
Kayak rentals go anywhere from $15-$25 an hour. There’s no need to reserve, there are a number of beach shacks where you can happily support local businesses without having to hoof it 10km with a kayak from town.
Tortuga Bay is also an ideal place to take a relaxing dip or enjoy a snorkel on days when it’s especially calm. Don’t worry about the reef sharks — White Tips especially are curious, gentle, and kinda lazy sometimes. They may approach you if you’re nearby, but their reputation as a non-aggressive species is why many travellers love to hop in the water with them! Trust me, I’ve been in the water with them several times and they haven’t even paid me any attention. Bummer.
Despite being an outdoor enthusiast from birth, kayaking was a paddling puzzle I had yet to solve. But with Sandra, the paddle maestro, by my side, I felt like a pro… or at least, like I wouldn’t tip us both into the drink. It turns out, with her guidance, kayaking was easier than a slice of apple pie.
Below, please find some sage words of advice:
- Choose your paddle wisely: Just like choosing a wand in Harry Potter, finding the right paddle is key. Pick one that’s the right size and weight for you, and consider the blade shape and material. And if you end up with a paddle that’s too big, well, you can always use it as a flagpole.
- Embrace the wobble: Kayaks can be a bit wobbly at first, but don’t worry, it’s just the boat’s way of testing your balance. Just remember, if you start to tip, lean in the opposite direction and pretend like you meant to do it.
- Be one with the water: Kayaking isn’t just about paddling, it’s about connecting with nature. So take a moment to breathe in the fresh air, admire the scenery, and maybe even serenade the birds with a song or two. Just don’t expect a standing ovation.
- Celebrate your victories: Whether it’s successfully navigating a tricky current or simply not dropping your paddle, every kayaking achievement deserves a victory dance. So feel free to bust a move and show off your paddling prowess. And if you happen to capsize, well, it was endearing in The Little Mermaid.
The experience
The second we stepped out of the panga and onto the sea-lion-dominated docks of Puerto Ayora, we were greeted by the unpredictable weather that often accompanies island life. Clouds loomed overhead, threatening rain, but the sun still managed to peek through, creating a sticky, humid atmosphere. But nothing could dampen our spirits as we set out on our morning kayak adventure to the beautiful Tortuga Bay.
As we waited near the docks for our local guide, the rest of our boat-mates prepared to head over to the Darwin Centre, which we’d spent a good amount of time at earlier. When our guide arrived, we were immediately warmed by her sunny demeanour.
Sandra was a true islander, born and raised on Santa Cruz, and her passion for the natural beauty of the Galapagos Islands was infectious. As we walked, she regaled us with stories of her childhood and her love for kayaking in the calm waters of Tortuga Bay. She even shared with us the joys of her young son, who loved reading and learning English.
The journey out to the bay is about 10km roundtrip, but with Sandra leading the way, the minutes seemed to fly by. We first navigated the bustling streets of Puerto Ayora, where we caught glimpses of daily life off the island’s primary strip. Then, we embarked on a winding trail we liked to call the “miniature great wall of china” which led us to the main beach, aka, “Playa Brava”. The beach itself was covered in blue glass-like jellyfish, it was important to watch your step — especially if you decided to go au naturel in the feet department as I did. It definitely makes for an interesting obstacle course.
Playa Brava isn’t safe for swimming due to the aggressive currents, but there seemed to be a decent amount of surfers on the water trying (and some succeeding) to catch a wave. Groups of marine iguanas basked in the sun, unbothered as tourists lived out their best NatGeo photographer lives — keeping a respectful distance of course.
But the true highlight of our journey was yet to come. As we made our way over to the lagoon itself, we were greeted by a sight that took our breath away. The lush mangroves and white sands stretched out before us, inviting us to take a dip in the crystal clear waters. As we looked out into the distance, we could see the rugged waves of the Pacific Ocean thrashing beyond our tiny sanctuary.
But it was the wildlife that truly stole the show. Tortuga Bay is home to an array of creatures, from playful sea lions to majestic marine iguanas. Paddling in our tandem kayaks, we were lucky enough to witness a bale of turtles mating in the shallow waters, a sight which perfectly showcased the nature of the area’s name. There were reef sharks, rays, blue-footed boobies, and marine iguanas galore. We happened upon a feasting pelican. Its meal? An octopus, rearing its tentacles. A reminder of the cycle of life that plays out on this remote island.
Sandra and I shared a ton of laughs as sea turtles bobbed up and down, boobies emitted their guttural brays, and reef sharks spent a lazy morning in the shallow mangroves. She made sure to point out every animal she saw — it was clear she didn’t want me to miss a single thing.
As it was overcast that day, we didn’t see a lot of other people in the water. That said, the beach was packed with locals enjoying a relatively tourist-free day by the ocean. I wish we’d had more time that morning, as I’d have loved to take a plunge and see what those loafing reef sharks were up to. Maybe next time!
Conclusion
The enthusiasm of local guides is truly unparalleled. Their love for the places they call home is immeasurable and it’s made clear through their guiding styles. Every guide we had on the entire 17-day journey was as enthusiastic as they come. Over the moon to share their country with us. It was like they were seeing animals with us for the first time.
Tortuga Bay is a natural wonder that deserves our respect and protection. It is a place where we can reconnect with nature, marvel at the diversity of wildlife, and appreciate the delicate balance of ecosystems that make life possible. And as we paddled our kayaks through the tranquil waters of the bay, we were reminded of the importance of preserving these precious environments for future generations. The Galapagos Islands are a fragile ecosystem, and we must work together to ensure that they remain a sanctuary for the incredible creatures that call it home.