I have always been an adventurer at heart, so when the opportunity arose to track endangered gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, I jumped — no leaped — at it. It wasn’t until we began the trek up the mountain that I realized the gravity of what I had signed up for. I suffer from chronic migraines, and unfortunately, I had already suffered through several during my trip (RIP my whitewater rafting excursion on the Nile). But I had come too far to bail out on this bucket list activity, so I decided to press on.
The group was fairly young, and we were assigned one of the toughest treks. I struggled to keep up with my tour mates due to pain and exhaustion, and had to let them go ahead while a kindly porter helped me.
The hike through the jungle was no easy feat. It was a test of physical and mental endurance, as I trudged through the thickest, stickiest, slickest mud that threatened to suck me in with every step. I slipped and slid, falling down and tripping over gnarled roots that seemed to have a life of their own. At times, it felt as though we veered off course, wandering aimlessly through the thick underbrush, trying to find our way back to the trail. We hadn’t, of course, the porter knew exactly where we were, despite having strayed far from the “trail”. It was like a scene out of an adventure movie, but without the stunt doubles or special effects. I was the star of my own jungle adventure, and every step was a triumph in its own right. I kept telling myself that if Lara Croft suffered from migraines, she would have struggled too.
When I did catch up with the group, I only had 10 minutes with the gorillas, but boy was it worth it. My tour mates tried their best to help me out. David, a doctor, rubbed tiger balm on my temples, and Ross, a young British gentleman, offered me his second bottle of water.
The trek was so taxing that it only exacerbated my migraine. But I was determined to keep going, even if I looked like a wet and muddy mess. I’m sure people thought it was because I was “too big” that I couldn’t do it, but little did they know that I suffer from PCOS, which makes it extremely difficult for me to lose weight. I like to think of myself as a big, beautiful mountain gorilla.
I eventually had to call for “the African helicopter” – a local joke because the forest is so thick that there’s no possible spot for a helicopter to land. It is essentially a bunch of strong local men who come carry you back to civilization on a litter. They were my heroes that day, and I thanked them profusely. Covered in mud and feeling embarrassed by my failure, I received my certificate declaring that I had made it to see the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.
Listen, I may have looked like a hot mess drenched in sweat and been suffering from the worst migraine of my life, but I was a goddamn warrior. I trudged (and tripped) through the slickest, stickiest mud you can imagine, tripped over roots and walked off course more times than I can count. But did I let that stop me? Heck no, daddio. I pushed myself to the limit, determined to see those gorgeous great apes in the wild. And I did it, even if I fell behind my tour mates and needed a little (ahem, or a lot) of assistance along the way.
I may have only had 10 minutes with the gorillas, but as fate would have it, I ended up with the best seat in the house – right in front of a curious baby. I’d like to think it sensed my pain and wanted to comfort me, but maybe it just wanted to show off for the camera. Either way, I got the money shot, and I’m pretty sure I’m the envy of all the Insta influencers out there. So let me tell you, if you’re ever feeling down and out, just remember that a little determination can go a long way. And if you’re covered in mud while doing it, well, that’s just an added bonus.
In conclusion, gorilla tracking, migraines, and PCOS might seem like a disastrous combination, but with the right attitude and some help from the African helicopter, anything is possible. Just don’t forget to bring your tiger balm and a sense of humour.
