Disclaimer: The political information presented in this article is not attributed to any specific individual; it has been compiled from multiple sources for informative purposes.
Unfortunately, when visiting a place like Syria, one cannot simply overlook what is readily apparent. In the West, there exists a morbid fascination with the tragedies of war and, to some extent, natural disasters, both of which are undeniably present here. With the ongoing civil war, which began nearly twelve years ago in 2011, there is ample evidence of devastation left in its wake. Aleppo, the world’s oldest continuously inhabited city, has seen its souqs decimated and citadels scarred. Then, in early February 2023, the city, already struggling, was hit by a 7.8 magnitude earthquake, leaving it in an even more dire state than before.
The World’s Oldest City
I must admit, a part of me was particularly intrigued to visit Aleppo, not only for its rich history but also to witness what was once the epicentre of a war so infamous that it dominated the front pages of our lives for several years. Now, as I stepped foot into the devastated and ancient Al-Madina Souq, doing my best to navigate the plethora of rubble, it felt like a scene from a movie. Yet, for the people of Aleppo, for the people of Syria, this was their daily reality. Being in places like these, it becomes especially apparent that there are real people here. It’s not just news on your TV screen or words in a national newspaper. There’s something profoundly humbling about staring up at charred ceilings and into empty stalls where a bustling market once thrived. Luckily, a new souq is being built in its place; it may not be from the 14th century, but it’s beautifully done and already beginning to flourish.
There’s also the matter of the Citadel. With undeniable history, including biblical mentions (Abraham apparently milked his goats on the surrounding hill), it took its fair share of hits during the Battle of Aleppo.
In the annals of Aleppo’s history, August 2012 stands as a grim milestone. It was during the intense Battle of Aleppo during the Syrian Civil War that the citadel, a symbol of enduring strength, faced a dire threat. The external gate, a sentinel of centuries past, bore the scars of artillery shelling during a fierce clash between the Free Syrian Army and the Syrian Army. Their relentless struggle for control over this ancient fortress inflicted substantial damage upon its sturdy walls, leaving an indelible mark on its heritage.
In a further twist of fate, July 2015 witnessed a covert operation unfolding beneath the very foundations of the citadel. A bomb detonated within a subterranean tunnel strategically positioned beneath one of its outer walls. Orchestrated by the Free Syrian Army, this explosive act aimed to dislodge the entrenched Syrian Army from its stronghold, deepening the citadel’s wounds in the process.
During the tumultuous conflict, the citadel assumed an unintended role as a military outpost for the Syrian Army. Opposition fighters reported the utilization of its towering walls as a protective cover for shelling operations against surrounding areas. Meanwhile, ancient arrow slits within the citadel’s timeworn walls became strategic vantage points for sharpshooters, who took aim at rebel forces below. The price of entanglement in contemporary warfare was steep, resulting in significant damage to this historical gem.
Yet, the citadel’s tribulations did not end there. In February 2023, the earthquake hit, leaving it even more battered and fragile than before.
That being said, there is a glimmer of hope on the horizon as steadfast workers embark on the task of restoring this historical landmark to its former glory. During our recent expedition, our group achieved a unique distinction – we were granted exclusive access to the citadel despite its closure due to the quake. It’s worth noting that the citadel remains off-limits to the general public (as of September 2023), but thanks to some expert manoeuvring by the resourceful leader, Fadi, at Golden Team Syria, we found ourselves in a privileged position.
Among our fellow travellers was Finn Dudok, an expert in urban regeneration. The idea of visiting the citadel was his Holy Grail, and as fate would have it, a touch of magic seemed to be in the air. “As a heritage developer with a passion for buildings from the ancient world… being the first tourists after the earthquake gave a real sense of reality and made it an almost otherworldly experience,” Dudok shares. In a remarkable turn of events, we found ourselves inside the Citadel manager’s office, sharing a coffee with the manager and his dedicated team. It was an encounter that offered a unique perspective on the ongoing efforts to revive the city’s central icon, a testament to the power of determination and collaboration in preserving the cultural heritage of Aleppo.
Power Struggles
Amidst the backdrop of conflict, Syria’s power infrastructure has taken a significant hit, with four out of its 14 power plants bearing substantial damage. This unfortunate situation has resulted in an 18 percent decrease in power production when compared to the prewar era. To address this challenge, the Syrian government has introduced an electricity rationing program to meet the nation’s pressing energy needs.
In a sobering turn of events reported by the Daily Mail in 2015, it was revealed that ISIS had gained control over eight of the nation’s power plants. Meanwhile, the Assad regime heavily relied on the gas supply that accounted for a staggering 90 percent of the country’s electricity generation. The root cause of this fuel scarcity can be traced back to a geographical issue – all the gas fields are located in the tumultuous north of Syria, making access a formidable challenge. Prior to the conflict, the country had enjoyed an uninterrupted power supply.
Ophelia Kewan, a local tour guide with Golden Team Syria, provides a firsthand glimpse into the postwar daily reality for Syrians. At her residence, she experiences just four hours of electricity per day. Even establishments catering to tourists, including hotels and restaurants, are not immune to the power predicament. While many of them have generators in place, intermittent power outages are still a common occurrence throughout the day. Furthermore, internet services are typically switched off during the night and only restored around 8:00-8:30 in the morning. Consequently, visitors should anticipate limited work opportunities before sunrise and ensure they charge their devices whenever an opportunity arises.
Kewan, who resides in Damascus, chose not to leave the country, though she stresses that she means no disrespect to any of the refugees. “At the beginning of the war, we were all confused and didn’t know whether to stay or leave,” she explains. But in the end, Kewan decided it was important for her to stay. “Nobody knows the history like I do. Nobody experiences the culture and all the things connected to the country the way I do.” There is no victim mentality here. “I promised myself never to leave unless it was for tourism or studying. And that’s what I did. I decided to stay and discover the peace.” Kewan is a proud ambassador for her country and loves showing visitors the beauty it has to offer — not to mention its history. “I’m very proud and happy to have this job.”