Syria.
What word comes to mind when you think of it? For most, it might be something along the lines of “war” or “destruction.” Perhaps “poverty” or “tragedy.” While these words hold undeniable truths, they often overshadow other aspects of this country—words like “artistic” and “lively,” “awe-inspiring” or “entrancing.” These words now overwhelm me when I think of Syria. I aim to share with you what I witnessed, through photographs and letters, with a focus on the positive, all the while acknowledging the impact of the wars that have been waged.
A common question I faced when I mentioned my trip to someone was, “Why?” I have no simple answer for you. But I’ve always been drawn to the misunderstood, to the underdog. I conducted thorough research and learned that now was as good a time as any to visit Syria. With much of the country relatively safe for tourists, I was thrilled to discover that several companies offered tours. That’s when I contacted a company called Golden Team Syria, and it was through them that I received an official invitation for one of their tours. I couldn’t have been more excited. This marked my first journey to the Middle East, and partnering with such a reputable company made me, as a solo female traveller, feel incredibly at ease.
The tour I joined was the Syria Carnival Tour: a 7-day/6-night spectacular that led us through the western side of the country, stretching as far south as Bosra (pronounced boos-ra) and as far north as Aleppo. It was unlike any other tour, and its namesake might strike one as unusual to find in Syria— a carnival?! I’ll delve into that in detail later, along with more about my experiences with Golden Team. But for now, let’s get acquainted with a country so few people understand.
There’s something about Damascus. The old buildings, connected by flower canopies, the narrow alleyways with boutique hotels and cafes that exude character: the Old City possesses a unique charm that sets it apart from others. It evokes a feeling of wonder and enchantment, as if you’ve stepped into a fairytale. Despite the visible scars of conflicts past, it remains the oldest inhabited city in the world, dating back as far as the 3rd millennium B.C.
At a nearby restaurant, a mural adorns a missile hole, skillfully incorporating the missile itself into its design. This tongue-in-cheek artwork not only conceals the remnants of combat but also reimagines them as an integral part of its narrative.
It was our first night in Damascus, and we climbed the stairs to a rooftop patio in the Old City. Ornate wrought iron railings and wooden beams secured the perimeter, and we sank into teal sofas as we sipped pre-dinner cocktails (well, I didn’t, I’m not a drinker. Bottled water for me). Below us the sounds of a big Syrian wedding. Just as we were about to settle the cheque, the power went out. This is a completely normal occurrence in Syria. Again, more on this later.
I spent the night at a quaint hostel with the window directly opening into a lively restaurant. The evening was not without its challenges, as the power outage persisted until approximately 3:30 a.m. Even when the electricity was finally restored, the relief of having the fan whirring gently overhead was marred by the sweltering heat that had enveloped the room, leaving me uncomfortably ensconced in a pool of my own sweat
Morning arrived, and to my dismay, I discovered that the sole available shower was out of order. Faced with the unenviable prospect of facing my second full day in the destination resembling a drowned sewer rat, I reluctantly opted for an alternative solution: the shatafa, a handheld bidet. It was a choice born of necessity, driven by the desire to avoid the indignity of venturing out into the world looking dishevelled and unkempt. I avoided looking like a drowned rat, only somewhat retaining the sewer aspect.
But hey, it’s all a part of the adventure. Plus, it makes for a great story.
Not all accommodations in the country are so primitive. There are plenty of hotels with A/C, backup generators, and great, albeit typically simple, amenities. Aleppo even has a Sheraton! Most boutique hotels offer breakfast as well, most often they’ll bring out several plates of local cuisine which can include, but are not limited to, pita with hummus, cucumber and tomato, olives, hard-boiled eggs, cheeses, meats, and slices of bread with jam. Some places offer self-serve buffets with more Western options like yogurt, fruit, and muffins.
If there’s one thing I took away, it’s that a tourist will never go hungry in Syria. Middle Eastern hospitality is above and beyond. Their kindness and generosity (especially when it comes to food!) is out of this world. The people make you feel safe and cared for.
The evident surprise when I shared that I wasn’t packing an abaya or hijab for my trip — nor did I intend on purchasing one–, served as a poignant illustration of how people’s preconceived notions about my travels held little validity. Particularly in Damascus, it became evident that women and girls were at liberty to don whatever attire they pleased. Instances of short shorts and low-cut tops were far from uncommon, underscoring the city’s relatively liberal atmosphere. Curiously, the souqs of both Damascus and Aleppo were lined with lingerie shops, surprising even the most open-minded of us. In Hama, a city 200 km north of Damascus, a somewhat more conservative approach was advised, though it merely entailed the suggestion of covering our legs and shoulders. I’m not suggesting that you go ahead and wear your club attire to Syria, as you’d definitely get a lot of potentially unwanted attention.
Like anywhere that isn’t used to having international visitors, you’re going to get a lot of attention — especially if you’re noticeably different colour. It’s true that prior to the onset of the war, Syria enjoyed a thriving tourism industry. In 2010, the country welcomed a staggering 8.5 million tourists, a figure that constituted a substantial 14% contribution to its overall economy. However, the devastating impact of the conflict became painfully evident by 2015 when the number of tourists had plummeted dramatically, declining by over 98% to a mere 170,000 visitors.
I would strongly recommend refraining from giving money to anyone, including children, regardless of how challenging it may feel. While the impulse to help is understandable, providing monetary assistance can inadvertently perpetuate the behaviour of begging and create a challenging environment where everyone is vying for assistance.
This advice is not specific to Syria but applies to any country facing economic instability. In such circumstances, street begging can become a common sight. They may approach your vehicle or touch you on the street. Unfortunately, some individuals may resort to aggressive or even violent tactics when seeking assistance.
In light of this, it’s crucial to exercise vigilance and prioritize personal safety. Exploring alternative ways to support local communities, such as donating to reputable charities or organizations, can be a more effective and sustainable approach to making a positive impact during your travels.
Last but not least, the question I’ve been getting most since my return (aside from “Did you feel safe?” The answer to that is 100% yes!)
“Would you recommend Syria as a destination?”
Yes! If you have a sense of adventure and aren’t afraid to tread off the beaten path, you need to add Syria to your bucket list. I was hosted by Golden Team Syria, and I wholeheartedly endorse their services. Their commitment to meticulous planning, expert guidance, and ensuring your safety is bar none. If you’re considering a trip to Syria, I highly recommend considering them as your travel partner to enhance your experience and make it truly memorable.
I invite you to explore my upcoming articles, each (hopefully) as captivating as the remarkable country they delve into.
Cheers to adventure!
Em